In 2010, I had the pleasure of working  at Brighton Fashion week last year with Liz Bishop  and her team. It was a great  experience and I loved every second of it. It is amazing how many people work behind the scene [...]]]> Our Fashion and Beauty Editor Igor Srzic Cartledge reports from Brighton Fashion week 2011.

In 2010, I had the pleasure of working  at Brighton Fashion week last year with Liz Bishop  and her team. It was a great  experience and I loved every second of it. It is amazing how many people work behind the scene to deliver a Fashion show.There’s a real back stage buzz before the show – making sure that all models have the correct outfits on and that their hair and make up are perfect. This year I wanted to be in the front row to see it all from different angle and try to compare it to London, Paris and  New York.

To kick off, a host of familiar faces were seen at the VIP Launch at The Hilton Metropole . Everyone made an effort to look glamorous and stylish and among those who succeeded were designer Toni Pickles, model Lindsay Fergusson and of course Liz Bishop herself.

Then on Thursday night it was standing room only, at the Brighton Frocks show in St Martin’s church – an atmospheric venue. I couldn’t resist slipping backstage, where things were going smoothly despite the restricted space.

The show opened with the theatrical extravaganza of a live ballet performance, before designers sent their creations down the runway. For me, Katy Newsham’s colourful circus-inspired collection was the highlight. Though I loved Bugsy Pants’ designs of picture postcard British Seaside attire and Briar-Rose Kelleher’s Marie Antoinette collection.

The Couture Show on Friday night required extra seating to cope with the crowds. My favourite designer from that evening must be the one and only Jess Eaton designer and her great collection Road Kill. No animals were killed for her collection – she only used those that had died of natural causes, and used their remains to create something beautiful. The crows went wild for her rat-skin coat, pheasant Mohawk, and horse-head-hat. Edward Finney presented his collection in brocade and tweed, finishing with a white gown which bled ink, so that it had turned blue by the end of the runway. Chic and unique!

Saturday saw The Ready to Wear Show kick off at The Corn Exchange, Brighton, with shows throughout the day, make-up demonstrations from Jemma Kidd staff, an oyster bar from Riddle and Finn, and Premier Model Management scouting for new faces.

All in all another very successful year for the Brighton Fashion week. Congratulations to Liz Bishop and her hard working team. I can’t wait til next year!

I am in my late 20s and I always love wearing tee shirts, but if I want to be honest with myself, I don’t think it always looks that great.  I am not sure how to combine clothes to look casual but cool, and where to draw the line in terms of tee-shirts at the [...]]]> Dear Igor

I am in my late 20s and I always love wearing tee shirts, but if I want to be honest with myself, I don’t think it always looks that great.  I am not sure how to combine clothes to look casual but cool, and where to draw the line in terms of tee-shirts at the office.

Please can you offer me any advice?

Beth from Worthing

Dear Beth,

You are not alone. Tee shirts are the ultimate basics for ease and versatility, so no wonder  everybody chooses to wear them so often.

Longer length tee-shirts are more flexible in terms of combining with other items, so go for something that ends at the hip rather than higher. Showing your midriff is not really stylish, even though it was popular a few years ago, and certainly not suitable for professional environments.

Putting a cardigan or jacket over a tee-shirt, is a good way to make a casual look more conservative and suitable for the office – and of course, to look smart, a tee shirt needs to be clean and fresh. – so make sure you keep your gym tee shirts separate from those you might wear to work.  Even at the gym people are looking at you, so you need to be honest about when a tee-shirt has had its day – even if it is an old favourite.

Finally, single coloured tee-shirts are a more versatile and smarter options than those with patterns or motifs.

I hope this has helped, but feel free to contact me for some one to one advice.

Where is your favourite place for shopping? I don’t have one particular place. My job is quite frantic so I have developed a practical ‘uniform’ that allows me to do my job comfortably and relatively smartly. It tends to consist of carpenter jeans (lots of pockets for scissors/cottons/tape [...]]]>

Personal Stylist Igor talks to Kevin from Renaissance

Where is your favourite place for shopping?
I don’t have one particular place. My job is quite frantic so I have developed a practical ‘uniform’ that allows me to do my job comfortably and relatively smartly. It tends to consist of carpenter jeans (lots of pockets for scissors/cottons/tape measures/phone/ wallet etc and a fitted shirt or polo shirt (usually black). This means that I can shop for myself pretty quickly, I can walk into a store and know instantly if there will be something I like, although fit is always important. I tend to bulk buy at the beginning of a season as I have little time. For example, H&M had some great fitted shirts at the beginning of this season so I bought two in every colour!

2 What is your wardrobe weakness?
AAH! Gresham Blake ties and blingy cuff links! I love wearing fabulous ties, preferably ones that clash with my shirt. I have a GORGEOUS cerise tie that I wear with a red shirt and wearing it always makes me feel happy. My other weakness is pointed boots (I don’t like shoes, I don’t like the shoe/sock/trouser thing that happens with shoes) I feel confident in a pointy boot.

3 What is your favourite piece you have designed?
This is hard to answer. Every piece I make is different as I work exclusively for the individual and never repeat a design. Therefore, every gown offers a new challenge either from a pattern cutting or construction perspective or simply because I am learning about the client as I learn about the dress. When I create gowns for fashion shows or for shoots, I am allowed a total free reign and often think I have created my ‘ultimate’ design. However, six months later when that dress has been photographed a hundred times and requested by dozens of stylists, my opinion changes!
The real answer would have to be ‘the one I am working on at the moment’.

4 What is your favourite outfit?
Either my black kilt, thick socks, chunky boots and a black T-Shirt or my cream John Rocha jacket, red shirt and white trousers. Or then again my Jack Wills chunky cardi and carpenter jeans or my black frill fronted H&M shirt and ….ho hum, depends on my mood I guess!

5 How important is your image at work?
It depends what I am doing. I like to look smart when meeting new clients and have to look very smart, but approachable, at shows and during interviews.  Unfortunately, practicality often over-rides smartness. Recently I had a film crew coming to film me in my studio so I wore my ‘uniform’ of black shirt, jeans and pointy boots. I was working on a glittery gown (with a very tight deadline) at the time and wanted to wait to be filmed before working on the commission. The film crew were four hours late and I couldn’t hang around whilst the commisssion went untouched. By the time they arrived, I was covered in glitter, the studio was covered in glitter and by the end of filming, they were covered in glitter, even the camera. I do try!

6 Who inspire you and your style? Where do you get your inspiration from?
I have to be careful answering this so I don’t sound like an idiot! I get inspiration from all sorts of things. If I am designing for a show, my influences may come from books, films, the arts, poetry; anything. One of my favourite collections came from the ‘Gormenghast’ trilogy by Mervyn Peake. The new gown I created for the ‘Couture Brighton’ exhibit at Brighton Museum grew from a photograph from a Renaissance fashion shoot by the Old Pier by Luke Woodford on a rainy day in November. If I am designing for a client, then that client becomes the inspiration. Inspiration is everywhere!

7 What can we expect from you in the near future?
Oddly for a womenswear designer, I am branching out into menswear. I am in the process of producing a collection of Italian styled, sensual suits for guys in luxurious and unusual fabrics. The styling will be louche and romantic with a hint of Dorian Gray ….perhaps you’d like to style it?
With regards my womenswear, I really want to develop a new range (perhaps in conjunction with an exclusive boutique) of exquisitely tailored jackets in silk matka to combine with avant garde pleated skirts. We’ll see, so many ideas.

8 What do you love about your work?
This is hard too! I love it all and I realise I am very lucky to be able to do what I love. Despite the ridiculously long hours, stressful deadlines and rollercoaster finances, I can genuinely say I am happier and more fulfilled being Renaissance than at any other time in my life. I love my clients and the challenges they bring, I love having to keep on top of marketing and publicity to make sure I am always current, I love creating a gown from a quick sketch on paper, I love teaching and sharing what I know, and I love the fact that you have asked me these questions. As long as people question what I am doing, then I am able to keep on doing it!

I just celebrated my sixtieth birthday, and reaching this age I am not sure where to go with my dress sense. I have a big wardrobe with lots of clothes in a range of different styles from different eras, but when I open it I feel that I don’t have anything to wear any [...]]]> Dear Igor

I just celebrated my sixtieth birthday, and reaching this age I am not sure where to go with my dress sense. I have a big wardrobe with lots of clothes in a range of different styles from different eras, but when I open it I feel that I don’t have anything to wear any more. I really need some advice about what to choose as I enter this new phase of my life.

Can you please help me

Yours

Helen from Haywards Heath

Dear Helen

Congratulations! And well done for realizing that the clothes that suited you in the past may not do so in the future. THe first step would be to undertake a wardrobe detox – leaving classic pieces, that suit your figure, and throwing out anything you would never wear again. This leaves you with a functional wardrobe. After that, we should meet for a consultation, to plan some personal styling, to find items, fabrics and colours, that will suit your figure, personality and complexion. Skin tones change as one gets older, and some colours that suited you in the past can wash you out, or look garish. Without meeting in person, it is hard to advise you on these issues, but now is a great time to arrange a personal stylist consultation, and I would be happy to help you.

Looking forward to meeting you soon

Igor

Dear Nina,

The trick for every body [...]]]> Dear Igor,
Since I gave birth to my son a two years ago I’m not able to lose the weight I put on.
I’m now a size 18, and I’m not sure how to dress and what to wear now that I have a fuller figure.
Can you please help me?
Sandra from Soutwick

Dear Nina,

The trick for every body shape is to show off your best features and hide what you are not happy with.
For your type of figure, during the day you can never go wong with a straight,slightly flippy skirt and a crisp white shirt.
If you are going out in the evening try to wear stiff fabric like taffeta. It is very sliming and always holds everything in and is dressy enough for any fancy party or special event.
You should look for tailored pieces like straight trousers and skirts, fitted shirts and wrap dresses.
Another tip is to steer away from boxy clothes which will only add extra pounds and don’t wear big print’s – better to go for a dress with slight movement and in one colour, or to wear simple, contrasting shades, like black and white.
Always choose cuts that are close to the body and avoid anything to loose or baggy. You’ll find that tops which are very simple, without any layers are more flattering, because too much volume looks extra bulky.
Finally, you should make sure you choose outfits that fit your body and make you look and feel comfortable.
All the best Igor

I work in a estate agents and I need to wear black suits at all the time. So I always end up wearing a black jacket with grey and chocolate underneath. I want to jazz things up a bit and be more adventurous. I have dark hair,bright blue eyes,dark eyebrows and eyelashes. Can you please advice me [...]]]> Dear Igor,

I work in a estate agents and I need to wear black suits at all the time.
So I always end up wearing a black jacket with grey and chocolate underneath.
I want to jazz things up a bit and be more adventurous.
I have dark hair,bright blue eyes,dark eyebrows and eyelashes.
Can you please advice me on colours and accessories?
Carol from Worthing

Dear Carol,
You will look much better combining black with a bright contrasting colour such as coral pink, clear salmon or watermelon.
You could mix it with a light colour such as light peach or lemon. Never wear black head to toe.
Always complete your look with either bright eye make-up,or bright lipstick,warm and contrasting colours.
For evening,accessorize black with bright coloured jewellery or with sparkle and glitter.
Choose shiny fabrics like satin and silk which will reflect the light.